Product classification

HS code for Unbleached cotton twill: 5209.12

Fabrics, woven, containing 85% or more by weight of cotton, unbleached, 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill, weighing more than 200g/m2.

Classification of unbleached cotton twill under HS 5209.12

Unbleached cotton twill is classified under HS code 5209.12 when it meets specific weight and composition thresholds. The fabric must contain at least 85% cotton by weight, identifying it as a predominantly cotton textile. Additionally, the fabric must be 'heavy,' which the Harmonized System defines as weighing more than 200 grams per square meter (g/m2). The weave must be a 3-thread or 4-thread twill, which includes cross twill patterns. This weave is easily identified by the diagonal lines or ribs that run across the face of the fabric. Being 'unbleached' means the fabric is in its natural state, often called 'greige' or 'gray' cloth, and has not been subjected to chemical whitening or coloring. This stage of production is common for fabrics intended for heavy-duty trousers, workwear, or industrial bags that will be dyed or finished at a later stage. Proper classification is vital for ensuring compliance with textile trade agreements and accurately calculating import duties.

Covers
  • Heavy unbleached cotton drill (>200g/m2)
  • Unbleached cotton gabardine weighing over 200g/m2
  • Greige denim fabric (before dyeing or washing)
  • 3-thread unbleached cotton twill for industrial use
Also under 5209.12
  • Cone Mills (historical raw denim)
  • Kaihara Denim (raw twill)
  • BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) certified unbleached twill
  • organic unbleached cotton canvas

Codes often confused with 5209.12

Common mistake. A frequent error is confusing 5209.12 with 5208.13. Both codes cover unbleached 3-thread or 4-thread cotton twill, but 5208.13 is for fabrics weighing 200g/m2 or less. Another common mistake is using 5211.12, which is for cotton blends containing less than 85% cotton. If the fabric has been bleached, even if it is otherwise identical, it must be moved to 5209.22. Importers must verify the exact weight and fiber percentage through laboratory testing to avoid these common pitfalls.

5208.13Fabrics, woven; containing 85% or more by weight of cotton, unbleached, 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill, weighing not more than 200g/m25211.12Fabrics, woven; containing less than 85% by weight of cotton, mixed mainly or solely with man-made fibres, unbleached, 3- or 4-thread twill, including cross twill, weighing more than 200g/m25209.22Fabrics, woven; containing 85% or more by weight of cotton, bleached, 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill, weighing more than 200g/m2

Top exporters and importers of HS 520912 (the code used for unbleached cotton twill), 2025

In 2025, the largest exporter of HS 520912 (the code used for unbleached cotton twill) in UN Comtrade data was India, with 31% of world exports; the largest importer in UN Comtrade data was Bangladesh, with about 30% of world imports. Countries that did not report 2025 data are estimated from partner records, which can understate them.

Figures cover everything classified under HS 520912, not only unbleached cotton twill.

Top exporters 2025 · share of world exports

  1. 1 India $57M
  2. 2 China $39M
  3. 3 Pakistan $31M

World total: $182M Reported figures on UN Comtrade ↗

Top importers 2025 · share of world imports

  1. 1 Bangladesh* ~$54M
  2. 2 South Korea $17M
  3. 3 Germany $12M

World total: $183M Reported figures on UN Comtrade ↗

How these figures are built

109 countries reported 2025 trade to UN Comtrade in HS 2022, and their own totals are used. Countries marked * did not, so their figures add up what other countries recorded trading with them, and their exports are valued at buyers' CIF prices. Those estimates miss trade with other non-reporting countries, so they can be low, and a non-reporting country can rank higher than shown or be missing from the list. World totals add both and leave out trade between two non-reporting countries. Figures are in current US dollars; reported imports are mostly valued CIF and exports FOB, and exports include re-exports. The UN Comtrade links show the underlying records; they can also list a few reporters left out here (regional groups and older HS editions).

Source: UN Comtrade (United Nations Statistics Division), 2025 annual data.

Brazil NCM code for unbleached cotton twill

Brazil classifies unbleached cotton twill under NCM 5209.12.00: HS 5209.12 with 00 added.

Source: Siscomex NCM table, updated Oct 2026. The Portuguese text on each NCM page is the official one.

Questions about unbleached cotton twill

What is the HS code for Unbleached cotton twill?

The HS code for Unbleached cotton twill is 520912 (Fabrics, woven; containing 85% or more by weight of cotton, unbleached, 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill, weighing more than 200g/m2). The HS code for unbleached cotton twill (85%+ cotton) weighing more than 200g/m2 is 5209.12.

How do I classify Unbleached cotton twill for customs?

Unbleached cotton twill is classified under HS code 520912 — Fabrics, woven; containing 85% or more by weight of cotton, unbleached, 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill, weighing more than 200g/m2. This is a 6-digit subheading level code.

Does this code include unbleached denim?

Yes, if the denim is in its unbleached, greige state and meets the weight and cotton percentage requirements, it falls under 5209.12.

Which countries are the top exporters of unbleached cotton twill (HS 520912)?

In 2025, the top exporters of HS 520912 (the code used for unbleached cotton twill) in UN Comtrade data were India ($57M, 31% of world exports), China ($39M) and Pakistan ($31M). World exports came to about $182M, adding countries' reported figures and partner-based estimates for those that did not report (UN Comtrade data). Countries that did not report 2025 data are estimated from partner records, which can understate them.

Which countries are the top importers of unbleached cotton twill (HS 520912)?

In 2025, the top importers of HS 520912 (the code used for unbleached cotton twill) in UN Comtrade data were Bangladesh (about $54M, 30% of world imports), South Korea ($17M) and Germany ($12M). World imports came to about $183M, adding countries' reported figures and partner-based estimates for those that did not report (UN Comtrade data). Countries that did not report 2025 data are estimated from partner records, which can understate them.

Is the HS code for Unbleached cotton twill the same in all countries?

The base HS code 520912 for Unbleached cotton twill is internationally standardized for the first 6 digits across 200+ countries. Individual countries may add additional digits for national tariff lines and specific classifications.

What is the NCM code for unbleached cotton twill in Brazil?

In Brazil, unbleached cotton twill (HS 520912) is classified under NCM 5209.12.00.