Product classification
HS code for Heavy cotton twill fabric: 5209.12
Fabrics, woven, containing 85% or more by weight of cotton, unbleached, 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill, weighing more than 200g/m2.
Classification of heavy cotton twill fabric under HS 5209.12
Heavy cotton twill fabric is classified under HS code 5209.12 because it meets several specific criteria defined in the Harmonized System nomenclature. Firstly, it falls under Chapter 52, which covers cotton and woven cotton fabrics. Heading 5209 is reserved for woven fabrics of cotton containing 85% or more by weight of cotton, weighing more than 200g/m2. The subheading 5209.12 specifically identifies unbleached fabrics with a 3-thread or 4-thread twill weave, including cross twill. This classification is determined by the weight of the fabric (heavyweight), the fiber composition (predominantly cotton), and the specific weave pattern (twill). The unbleached state indicates that the fabric has not undergone dyeing, printing, or bleaching processes after weaving, maintaining its natural color from the loom.
- Covers
- Unbleached heavy cotton drill
- Unbleached heavy cotton gabardine
- Unbleached heavy cotton serge
- Raw heavy cotton denim-style twill (unbleached)
- Industrial strength unbleached cotton canvas in twill weave
- Also under 5209.12
- Cone Mills (historical raw denim)
- Kaihara Denim (raw twill)
- BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) certified unbleached twill
- organic unbleached cotton canvas
Codes often confused with 5209.12
Common mistake. This product is frequently misclassified under HS code 5208.12. However, 5208 is strictly for fabrics weighing not more than 200g/m2. If the fabric exceeds this weight, it must move to 5209. Another common error is using 5209.22, which is for bleached twill fabrics; 5209.12 is exclusively for unbleached materials. Furthermore, if the cotton content is less than 85% and mixed with man-made fibers, it should be classified under 5211.
Top exporters and importers of HS 520912 (the code used for heavy cotton twill fabric), 2025
In 2025, the largest exporter of HS 520912 (the code used for heavy cotton twill fabric) in UN Comtrade data was India, with 31% of world exports; the largest importer in UN Comtrade data was Bangladesh, with about 30% of world imports. Countries that did not report 2025 data are estimated from partner records, which can understate them.
Figures cover everything classified under HS 520912, not only heavy cotton twill fabric.
Top exporters 2025 · share of world exports
- 1 India $57M 31% of world exports
- 2 China $39M 22% of world exports
- 3 Pakistan $31M 17% of world exports
World total: $182M Reported figures on UN Comtrade ↗
Top importers 2025 · share of world imports
- 1 Bangladesh* ~$54M 30% of world imports · partner records ↗
- 2 South Korea $17M 9.4% of world imports
- 3 Germany $12M 6.8% of world imports
World total: $183M Reported figures on UN Comtrade ↗
How these figures are built
109 countries reported 2025 trade to UN Comtrade in HS 2022, and their own totals are used. Countries marked * did not, so their figures add up what other countries recorded trading with them, and their exports are valued at buyers' CIF prices. Those estimates miss trade with other non-reporting countries, so they can be low, and a non-reporting country can rank higher than shown or be missing from the list. World totals add both and leave out trade between two non-reporting countries. Figures are in current US dollars; reported imports are mostly valued CIF and exports FOB, and exports include re-exports. The UN Comtrade links show the underlying records; they can also list a few reporters left out here (regional groups and older HS editions).
Source: UN Comtrade (United Nations Statistics Division), 2025 annual data.
Brazil NCM code for heavy cotton twill fabric
Brazil classifies heavy cotton twill fabric under NCM 5209.12.00: HS 5209.12 with 00 added.
Source: Siscomex NCM table, updated Oct 2026. The Portuguese text on each NCM page is the official one.
Questions about heavy cotton twill fabric
What is the HS code for Heavy cotton twill fabric?
The HS code for Heavy cotton twill fabric is 520912 (Fabrics, woven; containing 85% or more by weight of cotton, unbleached, 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill, weighing more than 200g/m2). The specific HS code for unbleached heavy cotton twill fabric (over 200g/m2 and 85%+ cotton) is 5209.12.
How do I classify Heavy cotton twill fabric for customs?
Heavy cotton twill fabric is classified under HS code 520912 — Fabrics, woven; containing 85% or more by weight of cotton, unbleached, 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill, weighing more than 200g/m2. This is a 6-digit subheading level code.
How does the thread count affect this classification?
The classification 5209.12 specifically requires a 3-thread or 4-thread twill weave. If the fabric is a plain weave, it would fall under 5209.11, regardless of the weight or cotton percentage.
Which countries are the top exporters of heavy cotton twill fabric (HS 520912)?
In 2025, the top exporters of HS 520912 (the code used for heavy cotton twill fabric) in UN Comtrade data were India ($57M, 31% of world exports), China ($39M) and Pakistan ($31M). World exports came to about $182M, adding countries' reported figures and partner-based estimates for those that did not report (UN Comtrade data). Countries that did not report 2025 data are estimated from partner records, which can understate them.
Which countries are the top importers of heavy cotton twill fabric (HS 520912)?
In 2025, the top importers of HS 520912 (the code used for heavy cotton twill fabric) in UN Comtrade data were Bangladesh (about $54M, 30% of world imports), South Korea ($17M) and Germany ($12M). World imports came to about $183M, adding countries' reported figures and partner-based estimates for those that did not report (UN Comtrade data). Countries that did not report 2025 data are estimated from partner records, which can understate them.
Is the HS code for Heavy cotton twill fabric the same in all countries?
The base HS code 520912 for Heavy cotton twill fabric is internationally standardized for the first 6 digits across 200+ countries. Individual countries may add additional digits for national tariff lines and specific classifications.
What is the NCM code for heavy cotton twill fabric in Brazil?
In Brazil, heavy cotton twill fabric (HS 520912) is classified under NCM 5209.12.00.