HS code · 6-digit subheading
HS Code 5209.12 – Fabrics, woven; containing 85% or more by weight of cotton, unbleached, 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill, weighing more than 200g/m2
HS code 5209.12 is the 6-digit subheading for fabrics, woven, containing 85% or more by weight of cotton, unbleached, 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill, weighing more than 200g/m2. It is used for heavy cotton twill fabric, unbleached denim base, canvas fabric (heavy unbleached), drill fabric (unbleached) and duck cloth (unbleached).
What HS 5209.12 covers
This code covers heavy-duty cotton fabrics, specifically those that are unbleached and feature a twill weave (like 3-thread or 4-thread, including cross twill), with cotton making up at least 85% of their weight and a substantial weight exceeding 200 grams per square meter. These robust textiles are fundamental raw materials in the global apparel and home furnishings industries. Importers are typically garment manufacturers, textile converters, and industrial fabric suppliers looking for durable, natural-fiber bases for further processing. Exporters are often major cotton-producing nations with established textile mills, such as India, Pakistan, China, and Turkey. Key things to know include the importance of consistent weave quality, fiber purity, and the fabric's readiness for subsequent dyeing, printing, or finishing treatments. Its unbleached state means it retains its natural, often off-white or ecru, color and may contain natural impurities, making it ideal for applications where a natural look is desired or where extensive post-processing is planned. The heavy weight indicates suitability for hard-wearing items.
- Covers
- Heavy cotton twill fabric
- Unbleached denim base
- Canvas fabric (heavy unbleached)
- Drill fabric (unbleached)
- Duck cloth (unbleached)
- Industrial cotton twill
- Raw twill fabric
- Examples
- Cone Mills (historical raw denim)
- Kaihara Denim (raw twill)
- BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) certified unbleached twill
- organic unbleached cotton canvas
Codes often confused with 5209.12
Common mistake. This code can be confused with 520919 (other unbleached weaves) if the twill weave isn't correctly identified, or with 520812 if the fabric weight is less than 200g/m².
Top exporters and importers of HS code 520912, 2025
In 2025, the largest exporter of HS code 520912 in UN Comtrade data was India, with 31% of world exports; the largest importer in UN Comtrade data was Bangladesh, with about 30% of world imports. Countries that did not report 2025 data are estimated from partner records, which can understate them.
Top exporters 2025 · share of world exports
- 1 India $57M 31% of world exports
- 2 China $39M 22% of world exports
- 3 Pakistan $31M 17% of world exports
World total: $182M Reported figures on UN Comtrade ↗
Top importers 2025 · share of world imports
- 1 Bangladesh* ~$54M 30% of world imports · partner records ↗
- 2 South Korea $17M 9.4% of world imports
- 3 Germany $12M 6.8% of world imports
World total: $183M Reported figures on UN Comtrade ↗
How these figures are built
109 countries reported 2025 trade to UN Comtrade in HS 2022, and their own totals are used. Countries marked * did not, so their figures add up what other countries recorded trading with them, and their exports are valued at buyers' CIF prices. Those estimates miss trade with other non-reporting countries, so they can be low, and a non-reporting country can rank higher than shown or be missing from the list. World totals add both and leave out trade between two non-reporting countries. Figures are in current US dollars; reported imports are mostly valued CIF and exports FOB, and exports include re-exports. The UN Comtrade links show the underlying records; they can also list a few reporters left out here (regional groups and older HS editions).
Source: UN Comtrade (United Nations Statistics Division), 2025 annual data.
Brazil NCM code for 5209.12
Brazil does not split HS 5209.12: its NCM code is 5209.12.00.
All Brazil NCM codes in heading 52.09 →
Source: Siscomex NCM table, updated Oct 2026. The Portuguese text is official; the English is our translation.
Questions about HS 5209.12
What is HS code 520912?
HS code 520912 is a 6-digit subheading in the Harmonized System that covers: Fabrics, woven; containing 85% or more by weight of cotton, unbleached, 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill, weighing more than 200g/m2. This code covers heavy-duty cotton fabrics, specifically those that are unbleached and feature a twill weave (like 3-thread or 4-thread, including cross twill), with cotton making up at least 85% of their weight and a substantial weight exceeding 200 grams per square meter. These robust textiles are fundamental raw materials in the global apparel and home furnishings industries. Importers are typically garment manufacturers, textile converters, and industrial fabric suppliers looking for durable, natural-fiber bases for further processing. Exporters are often major cotton-producing nations with established textile mills, such as India, Pakistan, China, and Turkey. Key things to know include the importance of consistent weave quality, fiber purity, and the fabric's readiness for subsequent dyeing, printing, or finishing treatments. Its unbleached state means it retains its natural, often off-white or ecru, color and may contain natural impurities, making it ideal for applications where a natural look is desired or where extensive post-processing is planned. The heavy weight indicates suitability for hard-wearing items.
What products fall under HS code 520912?
Heavy cotton twill fabric, unbleached denim base, canvas fabric (heavy unbleached), drill fabric (unbleached), duck cloth (unbleached), industrial cotton twill, raw twill fabric
What are common misclassifications for HS code 520912?
This code can be confused with 520919 (other unbleached weaves) if the twill weave isn't correctly identified, or with 520812 if the fabric weight is less than 200g/m².
Which countries are the top exporters of goods under HS code 520912?
In 2025, the top exporters of HS code 520912 in UN Comtrade data were India ($57M, 31% of world exports), China ($39M) and Pakistan ($31M). World exports came to about $182M, adding countries' reported figures and partner-based estimates for those that did not report (UN Comtrade data). Countries that did not report 2025 data are estimated from partner records, which can understate them.
Which countries are the top importers of goods under HS code 520912?
In 2025, the top importers of HS code 520912 in UN Comtrade data were Bangladesh (about $54M, 30% of world imports), South Korea ($17M) and Germany ($12M). World imports came to about $183M, adding countries' reported figures and partner-based estimates for those that did not report (UN Comtrade data). Countries that did not report 2025 data are estimated from partner records, which can understate them.
How is HS code 520912 structured?
HS code 520912 is a 6-digit subheading under the Harmonized System. The first 2 digits (52) identify the chapter, digits 3-4 (09) identify the heading, and digits 5-6 (12) specify the subheading. This code is standardized globally by the World Customs Organization.
What is the Brazil NCM code for HS code 520912?
In Brazil, HS code 520912 is NCM 5209.12.00. The last two digits are 00 because Brazil does not split this HS code further.