Product classification
HS code for Greige cotton twill: 5208.13
Fabrics, woven, containing 85% or more by weight of cotton, unbleached, 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill, weighing not more than 200g/m2.
Classification of greige cotton twill under HS 5208.13
Greige cotton twill is classified under HS code 5208.13. This specific code is reserved for woven fabrics that are composed of at least 85% cotton by weight, weigh no more than 200g/m2, and are in an unbleached (greige) state. The defining technical characteristic for this subheading is the weave structure: it must be a 3-thread or 4-thread twill, which includes cross twill. Twill is identified by the diagonal ribbing or 'wales' on the surface of the fabric, created by the offset of the warp and weft threads. Because the fabric is unbleached, it has not undergone any chemical whitening or dyeing processes. The Harmonized System distinguishes between weave types because they affect the fabric's durability, drape, and end-use. Twill weaves are generally sturdier than plain weaves, making them popular for lightweight workwear and durable linings. Accurate classification requires a physical inspection of the weave pattern to confirm the 3-thread or 4-thread count, as well as a laboratory confirmation of the cotton content and fabric weight.
- Covers
- Unbleached 3-thread cotton twill
- Greige 4-thread cotton twill
- Unbleached cotton drill (under 200g/m2)
- Raw cotton cross twill fabrics
- Lightweight unbleached denim-base fabrics
- Also under 5208.13
- Raw denim for jeans
- unbleached twill for workwear prototypes
- natural gabardine for coats
- unbleached chino for trousers
Codes often confused with 5208.13
Common mistake. Greige cotton twill is often misclassified under 5208.11 or 5208.12, which are reserved for plain weave fabrics. It is also frequently confused with 5209.12, which covers unbleached 3-thread or 4-thread twill that weighs more than 200g/m2. If the fabric is bleached (whitened), it should be classified under 5208.23 rather than 5208.13.
Top exporters and importers of HS 520813 (the code used for greige cotton twill), 2025
In 2025, the largest exporter of HS 520813 (the code used for greige cotton twill) in UN Comtrade data was China, with 70% of world exports; the largest importer in UN Comtrade data was Vietnam, with about 42% of world imports. Countries that did not report 2025 data are estimated from partner records, which can understate them.
Figures cover everything classified under HS 520813, not only greige cotton twill.
Top exporters 2025 · share of world exports
- 1 China $94M 70% of world exports
- 2 Pakistan $13M 10.0% of world exports
- 3 India $12M 8.5% of world exports
World total: $135M Reported figures on UN Comtrade ↗
Top importers 2025 · share of world imports
- 1 Vietnam* ~$54M 42% of world imports · partner records ↗
- 2 Italy $10M 8.0% of world imports
- 3 Bangladesh* ~$8.2M 6.4% of world imports · partner records ↗
World total: $128M Reported figures on UN Comtrade ↗
How these figures are built
109 countries reported 2025 trade to UN Comtrade in HS 2022, and their own totals are used. Countries marked * did not, so their figures add up what other countries recorded trading with them, and their exports are valued at buyers' CIF prices. Those estimates miss trade with other non-reporting countries, so they can be low, and a non-reporting country can rank higher than shown or be missing from the list. World totals add both and leave out trade between two non-reporting countries. Figures are in current US dollars; reported imports are mostly valued CIF and exports FOB, and exports include re-exports. The UN Comtrade links show the underlying records; they can also list a few reporters left out here (regional groups and older HS editions).
Source: UN Comtrade (United Nations Statistics Division), 2025 annual data.
Brazil NCM code for greige cotton twill
Brazil classifies greige cotton twill under NCM 5208.13.00: HS 5208.13 with 00 added.
Source: Siscomex NCM table, updated Oct 2026. The Portuguese text on each NCM page is the official one.
Questions about greige cotton twill
What is the HS code for Greige cotton twill?
The HS code for Greige cotton twill is 520813 (Fabrics, woven; containing 85% or more by weight of cotton, unbleached, 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill, weighing not more than 200g/m2). The HS code for unbleached woven cotton fabric (85%+ cotton) in a 3-thread or 4-thread twill weave weighing under 200g/m2 is 5208.13.
How do I classify Greige cotton twill for customs?
Greige cotton twill is classified under HS code 520813 — Fabrics, woven; containing 85% or more by weight of cotton, unbleached, 3-thread or 4-thread twill, including cross twill, weighing not more than 200g/m2. This is a 6-digit subheading level code.
What is the difference between 5208.13 and 5209.12?
The difference is the weight of the fabric. 5208.13 is for fabrics weighing 200g/m2 or less, while 5209.12 is for those weighing more than 200g/m2.
Which countries are the top exporters of greige cotton twill (HS 520813)?
In 2025, the top exporters of HS 520813 (the code used for greige cotton twill) in UN Comtrade data were China ($94M, 70% of world exports), Pakistan ($13M) and India ($12M). World exports came to about $135M, adding countries' reported figures and partner-based estimates for those that did not report (UN Comtrade data). Countries that did not report 2025 data are estimated from partner records, which can understate them.
Which countries are the top importers of greige cotton twill (HS 520813)?
In 2025, the top importers of HS 520813 (the code used for greige cotton twill) in UN Comtrade data were Vietnam (about $54M, 42% of world imports), Italy ($10M) and Bangladesh (about $8.2M). World imports came to about $128M, adding countries' reported figures and partner-based estimates for those that did not report (UN Comtrade data). Countries that did not report 2025 data are estimated from partner records, which can understate them.
Is the HS code for Greige cotton twill the same in all countries?
The base HS code 520813 for Greige cotton twill is internationally standardized for the first 6 digits across 200+ countries. Individual countries may add additional digits for national tariff lines and specific classifications.
What is the NCM code for greige cotton twill in Brazil?
In Brazil, greige cotton twill (HS 520813) is classified under NCM 5208.13.00.