Product classification
HS code for Unbleached plain weave cotton fabric: 5208.12
Fabrics, woven, containing 85% or more by weight of cotton, unbleached, plain weave, weighing more than 100g/m2 but not more than 200g/m2.
Classification of unbleached plain weave cotton fabric under HS 5208.12
Unbleached plain weave cotton fabric weighing between 100g/m2 and 200g/m2 is classified under HS code 5208.12. This classification falls under Chapter 52 (Cotton), specifically heading 5208, which covers woven fabrics of cotton containing 85% or more by weight of cotton, weighing not more than 200g/m2. The subheading 5208.12 is precise: it requires the fabric to be unbleached, woven in a plain weave pattern, and have a weight exceeding 100g/m2 but not exceeding 200g/m2. Plain weave is defined as a textile weave in which each weft thread passes alternately over and under each warp thread. This code is essential for identifying raw textile materials used in apparel and home furnishings before they undergo dyeing, printing, or specialized finishing processes.
- Covers
- Unbleached cotton calico (medium weight)
- Greige plain weave cotton sheeting
- Raw cotton canvas under 200g/m2
- Unbleached cotton muslin (heavy grade)
- Undyed plain weave cotton poplin base
- Also under 5208.12
- Unbleached calico for prototypes
- raw cotton duck for bags
- natural poplin for shirts
- unbleached sheeting for bedding
Codes often confused with 5208.12
Common mistake. This code is often confused with 5208.11, which is for plain weave fabrics weighing 100g/m2 or less, or 5209.11, which covers plain weave fabrics weighing more than 200g/m2. Additionally, if the fabric is bleached, it must be classified under 5208.22. Accurate weight measurement (grams per square meter) is the most critical factor in distinguishing between these codes.
Top exporters and importers of HS 520812 (the code used for unbleached plain weave cotton fabric), 2025
In 2025, the largest exporter of HS 520812 (the code used for unbleached plain weave cotton fabric) in UN Comtrade data was China, with 38% of world exports; the largest importer in UN Comtrade data was South Korea, with 12% of world imports. Russia did not report 2025 data, and its estimate from partner records misses its trade with other countries that did not report: in 2024 that was 93% of its imports here ($52M, CEPII BACI), so it may also belong among the top importers.
Figures cover everything classified under HS 520812, not only unbleached plain weave cotton fabric.
Top exporters 2025 · share of world exports
- 1 China $258M 38% of world exports
- 2 Pakistan $146M 21% of world exports
- 3 India $110M 16% of world exports
World total: $678M Reported figures on UN Comtrade ↗
Top importers 2025 · share of world imports
- 1 South Korea $68M 12% of world imports
- 2 Pakistan $55M 9.4% of world imports
- 3 Vietnam* ~$43M 7.4% of world imports · partner records ↗
Russia did not report 2025 data, and its estimate from partner records misses its trade with other countries that did not report: in 2024 that was 93% of its imports here ($52M, CEPII BACI), so it may also belong among the top importers.
World total: $578M Reported figures on UN Comtrade ↗
How these figures are built
109 countries reported 2025 trade to UN Comtrade in HS 2022, and their own totals are used. Countries marked * did not, so their figures add up what other countries recorded trading with them, and their exports are valued at buyers' CIF prices. Those estimates miss trade with other non-reporting countries, so they can be low, and a non-reporting country can rank higher than shown or be missing from the list. World totals add both and leave out trade between two non-reporting countries. Figures are in current US dollars; reported imports are mostly valued CIF and exports FOB, and exports include re-exports. The UN Comtrade links show the underlying records; they can also list a few reporters left out here (regional groups and older HS editions).
Source: UN Comtrade (United Nations Statistics Division), 2025 annual data.
Brazil NCM code for unbleached plain weave cotton fabric
Brazil classifies unbleached plain weave cotton fabric under NCM 5208.12.00: HS 5208.12 with 00 added.
Source: Siscomex NCM table, updated Oct 2026. The Portuguese text on each NCM page is the official one.
Questions about unbleached plain weave cotton fabric
What is the HS code for Unbleached plain weave cotton fabric?
The HS code for Unbleached plain weave cotton fabric is 520812 (Fabrics, woven; containing 85% or more by weight of cotton, unbleached, plain weave, weighing more than 100g/m2 but not more than 200g/m2). For fabrics weighing between 100g/m2 and 200g/m2, the correct HS code is 5208.12.
How do I classify Unbleached plain weave cotton fabric for customs?
Unbleached plain weave cotton fabric is classified under HS code 520812 — Fabrics, woven; containing 85% or more by weight of cotton, unbleached, plain weave, weighing more than 100g/m2 but not more than 200g/m2. This is a 6-digit subheading level code.
What defines a fabric as "unbleached" in this category?
Unbleached fabrics are those that have not been subjected to any bleaching, dyeing, or printing processes and retain the natural color of the cotton fibers.
Which countries are the top exporters of unbleached plain weave cotton fabric (HS 520812)?
In 2025, the top exporters of HS 520812 (the code used for unbleached plain weave cotton fabric) in UN Comtrade data were China ($258M, 38% of world exports), Pakistan ($146M) and India ($110M). World exports came to about $678M, adding countries' reported figures and partner-based estimates for those that did not report (UN Comtrade data). Countries that did not report 2025 data are estimated from partner records, which can understate them.
Which countries are the top importers of unbleached plain weave cotton fabric (HS 520812)?
In 2025, the top importers of HS 520812 (the code used for unbleached plain weave cotton fabric) in UN Comtrade data were South Korea ($68M, 12% of world imports), Pakistan ($55M) and Vietnam (about $43M). World imports came to about $578M, adding countries' reported figures and partner-based estimates for those that did not report (UN Comtrade data). Russia did not report 2025 data, and its estimate from partner records misses its trade with other countries that did not report: in 2024 that was 93% of its imports here ($52M, CEPII BACI), so it may also belong among the top importers.
Is the HS code for Unbleached plain weave cotton fabric the same in all countries?
The base HS code 520812 for Unbleached plain weave cotton fabric is internationally standardized for the first 6 digits across 200+ countries. Individual countries may add additional digits for national tariff lines and specific classifications.
What is the NCM code for unbleached plain weave cotton fabric in Brazil?
In Brazil, unbleached plain weave cotton fabric (HS 520812) is classified under NCM 5208.12.00.