HS Code 53.09 – Woven fabrics of flax

HS code 5309 is a 4-digit heading in the Harmonized System that covers: Woven fabrics of flax. Heading 5309 specifically covers "Woven fabrics of flax," classifying textiles predominantly composed of flax fibers by weight. This heading encompasses a wide array of linen fabrics, from fine, sheer materials suitable for apparel to heavy-duty canvases for industrial applications. The scope includes fabrics of various weaves such as plain, twill, satin, and jacquard, whether unbleached, bleached, dyed, printed, or finished in any other way. It strictly delineates fabrics where flax is the primary component, distinguishing them from blends where other fibers might be predominant, or from fabrics made of other vegetable fibers (5310, 5311) or cotton (Chapter 52). Accurate classification under 5309 is paramount for trade compliance. It determines the correct import duties, eligibility for preferential trade agreements, quota application, and compliance with specific labeling regulations regarding fiber content, which are crucial for market access and avoiding penalties. Historically, linen fabrics have been prized for their strength, durability, absorbency, and elegant drape, with a long tradition in apparel, home textiles, and artistic uses. Their trade significance endures due to growing demand for natural, sustainable, and high-quality textiles. This heading is a key component of Chapter 53, which groups other vegetable textile fibers and their woven fabrics, and falls under Section XI, dedicated to Textile and Textile Articles, providing a clear progression from flax yarn (5306) to finished woven goods.

Plain weave linen fabric, twill weave linen fabric, jacquard linen fabric, printed linen fabric, dyed linen fabric, bleached linen fabric, unbleached linen fabric, raw linen fabric, apparel-grade linen fabric, upholstery linen fabric, curtain linen fabric, bed linen fabric, table linen fabric, industrial linen fabric, embroidery linen fabric, sheer linen fabric, heavy-duty linen canvas, light-weight linen shirting fabric, linen denim, linen blend fabric (flax predominant), organic linen fabric, stonewashed linen fabric, softened linen fabric, embroidered linen fabric, waterproofed linen fabric.

Common misclassifications for woven flax fabrics primarily arise from confusion with other woven vegetable fabrics. Traders might mistakenly classify linen fabric under 5310 (Woven fabrics of jute or other textile bast fibres of heading 5303) or 5311 (Woven fabrics of other vegetable textile fibres; woven fabrics of paper yarn), particularly if the specific fiber identification is not rigorously confirmed. Another frequent error involves blended fabrics; if flax is not the predominant fiber by weight, the fabric should be classified under the heading of the fiber that *is* predominant (e.g., cotton fabrics in Chapter 52 or synthetic fabrics in Chapter 54/55), necessitating precise fiber composition analysis. Superficial visual resemblance can lead to incorrect classification.

In 2025, the top exporters of HS code 5309 in UN Comtrade data were China ($1.4B, 59% of world exports), Italy ($228M) and Spain ($116M). World exports came to about $2.3B, adding countries' reported figures and partner-based estimates for those that did not report (UN Comtrade data). Countries that did not report 2025 data are estimated from partner records, which can understate them.

In 2025, the top importers of HS code 5309 in UN Comtrade data were Bangladesh (about $440M, 20% of world imports), Vietnam (about $228M) and Morocco ($159M). World imports came to about $2.2B, adding countries' reported figures and partner-based estimates for those that did not report (UN Comtrade data). Countries that did not report 2025 data are estimated from partner records, which can understate them.

HS code 5309 is a 4-digit heading under Chapter 53 of the Harmonized System. The first 2 digits (53) identify the chapter, and digits 3-4 (09) specify the heading. This code contains multiple 6-digit subheadings for precise product classification.